Snowshoeing in an Austrian Winter Wonderland

A Dream Come True

Close your eyes and imagine Austria in winter. Picture the flawless snowy meadows stretched out underneath a Kodakchrome blue sky. Imagine the old wooden barns, fringed by sparkling icicles; a village settled down at a bend in the river, smoke coming from the chimneys. All around you are granite peaks where the breeze lifts snow in wispy feathers along the ridgeline. The only sound is the crunching under your snowshoes, as wisps of powder rising behind your steps. Imagine yourself later that evening, a golden glass of Pilsner next to a steaming plate of homemade goulash and for dessert, well, strudel, of course. Then, it’s off to bed under a fluffy down comforter in your cozy pine-paneled room, the snow falling silently outside your window.

Now open your eyes. It’s all true. It really is just like that.

But the secret isn’t out … yet.

Austria is famous for its skiing. The 1964 and 1976 Olympics in Innsbruck solidified Austria’s snow paradise image in the international imagination. What’s not so well known – even to Austrians – is that this little country in the Alps also offers up some of the finest snowshoeing you’ll ever experience.

Austria as a nation has embraced fitness, not just as a hobby or a competitive pursuit, but also as a lifestyle. Because of this, Austria is crisscrossed with well-marked hiking and mountain bike trails. Austria also has a superb cross-country skiing infrastructure, so those of us who favor Nordic-style skiing have mile upon mile of groomed trails. But snowshoeing is a relatively new sport to regular folks there – it’s still seen as the sport of mountaineers by most.

This leaves the bike routes, hiking trails and unplowed forest service roads to those of us who want nothing more than to walk through a silent forest or around a tree-circled lake or, let’s be honest here, to take the back route over the ridge to that place that makes the perfect chocolate cake.

You’re sold on the idea already, aren’t you? Let’s cover a few general travel details before heading out onto the snow.

General Information For Travelers In Austria

As of this writing, American citizens weren’t required to have visas for short visits to Austria. It’s always a good idea to check with the consulate before you go, though, as requirements may change.

The easiest airport to fly in and out of is in Vienna. This unique Austrian city in wintertime, with its Christmas markets, cultural history, and excellent cuisine is a fine place to spend a few days; and, you’ll be missing out on a lot if you don’t plan to go through Austria’s grand capital.

For an almost ideal itinerary, fly into Vienna and spend a day or two enjoying the city. Then, pick up a rental car, head out to the snow and fly out of either Salzburg or Innsbruck. If you don’t want to rent a car, rail travel in Austria is quite accessible for people looking to enjoy the big outdoors. I’ve been to destinations where you can step off the train, cross the tracks, and head out on the snow.

Most Austrians speak some English, especially in areas where there are a lot of tourists. It never hurts to be able to say “please” and “thank you” in the local language and a little effort will go a long way towards breaking the ice with the locals. I find Austrians to be somewhat formal, but quite friendly. They’re always willing to help, be it with deciphering the menu or finding the trailhead, regardless of their skills with your language.

Austrians pride themselves on their foot and with good reason. My preconception of Austrian food as meat and potato-based festival of stodginess has been replaced with a near-religious devotion to the country’s cuisine. Austria’s location in the center of Europe makes its food a cosmopolitan mix of the best of what its neighbors have to offer, all assembled with high-quality local ingredients. Vegetarians won’t be disappointed either: meatless options are plentiful, and the desserts will make all previous dessert experiences pale in comparison.

Health-conscious folks will regret that Austria doesn’t provide extensive non-smoking facilities. For people who are sensitive to this, I recommend dining early to avoid the crowds. Officials are working to increase the number of non-smoking facilities, but results aren’t projected to be in place. [Editors update: Austria passed a smoking ban in bars, cafes, and restaurants as of Nov 1, 2019]

I’d be remiss if I overlooked one last detail. This might not be news to you if you’ve traveled extensively in Europe, and outdoors folks tend to be a little less modest out of necessity, but…saunas and spa facilities are often co-ed. Even locker rooms are often co-ed, though sometimes there will be a women’s section and a men’s section. Many places schedule times for just the ladies or just the gents. If you don’t want to find yourself (a-hem) cheek to cheek with a stranger of the opposite sex in the sauna, be sure to ask before you head in.

When To Go

Snow is a fickle mistress, so it’s hard to know exactly when to book your travels. The good news is that in a country with so many high meadows, you’re sure to find snow somewhere, even if you have to take a lift or a gondola.

Plus, as snowshoers, we’re much less dependent on the deep base that skiers need. That said, in my five years spending the winter in Austria, I’ve yet to experience a bad February. It’s my favorite time of year. It can be bitter cold, but the cold is almost always accompanied by bright sunshine- don’t forget your sunscreen.

By February, there’s usually a significant amount of snow on the ground, even at the lower altitudes, transforming any forest road or bike trail into an easily accessible place to set your feet. I’m not going to issue a money-back guarantee, but given a choice, I’d pick February every time.

What About My Gear?

Many places will provide you with snowshoes if you don’t want to bring your own, but you should confirm that when you book. Outdoor gear and clothing in Austria can be relatively inexpensive and there are some good bargains to be had if you buy Austrian brands or shop the box stores.

But as I’ve already mentioned, snowshoeing is a relatively new sport for the masses, and selection can be a little thin. Pack your snowshoeing boots –  or wear them when you travel – and your long underwear. If you want to head out on the snow pronto, bring the whole lot, everything you’d want for snowshoeing at home. But if you don’t mind a little shopping, ask around for mountaineering and ski shops.

With all that spectacular scenery, you’re going to want a camera (or phone), of course. I’ve noticed that I can burn through my batteries at a faster speed in the sometimes extreme cold weather and that digital media can be slow to respond. So, I always carry extra batteries and keep the camera or my phone close to my body and protected from the weather when I’m not using it.

A Quick Language Lesson

If you’re going on your own and hoping to be your own tour guide, here are a few words that will help you out in finding your dream snowshoe destination.

Schneeschuh – You guessed it, snowshoe.

Winterwanderwege – Winter hiking trails

Bergsteigen – Mountaineering. Be aware that for many Austrias, snowshoeing is the sport of mountaineers. When you inquire locally about opportunities, be sure you’re clear about what you’re signing up for. Also, just because you’re headed up the gondola to some glacier, don’t immediately conclude that you’re in for some epic adventure. Austria’s leisurely day-hiking infrastructure is everywhere.

Wandernhotel – Inns of this special breed are usually located right in the middle of your winter playground. You can often walk out of the hotel directly to the trailhead, no car needed. Increasingly, these places offer snowshoeing, gear included.

Destinations

I’ve selected a handful of destinations for you and, at the end of the article, I’ve listed some resources you can use when planning your own Austria snowshoe adventure. I’ve avoided listing specific trails because, as we all know, snow varies from year to year.

I encourage you to visit tourist offices, to check outdoor gear stores and to ask the locals where they’d recommend you go hiking. Talking with the locals will give you not only the most current information about where to go but will also help you discover surprising little gems. For example, hike to a delicious lunch at a traditional “gasthaus” on the edge of a lake or an uncrowded trail to a spectacular viewpoint where you’re sure to see mountain goats clinging to the cliffs behind you.

Bad Gastein And The Gastein Valley

If you’ve decided to fly into Salzburg, the Gastein Valley is a choice destination. It’s about an hour from Salzburg by car and it can easily be reached by train too. The valley offers 100 km of hiking trails, along with all the usual winter sports goodness – downhill skiing, sledding and more. The valley is also home to a number of fine spas, so if you feel like spoiling yourself with the springs and a massage after your adventures on the snow, you’ll find you’ve chosen the right place.

You’ll also be close to the Hohe Tauern National Park where, for a few euros – which includes the price of rental snowshoes – you can take a guided tour from the crowded slopes and up into the high meadows. You might see mountain goats, elk, and other critters making their way through their winter habitat.

For deluxe accommodation “Zum Stern” Hotel in Bad Gastein offers a seven-day “Wintersport” package that includes your room, half pension, and snowshoe tours. This four-star facility has an indoor pool. gourmet cuisine, and full spa services. If that’s a little fancy for you, there are plenty of holiday apartments, smaller pension hotels, and even private homes that offer rooms. The Bad Gastein website has a search engine that will help you locate just the right rooms for your needs.

Beautiful Austria Alps – Image by Eagleeye56 from Pixabay

Wildkogel

I love snowshoeing, I really do, but Wildkogel offers up something else that, as a fully-grown adult, I just can’t resist. The people there claim to have the world’s longest sledding run. If you’re going for the snowshoeing anyway, don’t miss out on the opportunity to head to this spot, about halfway between Innsbruck and Salzburg.

The ski resort has a 14 km sled run, and that’s something you’ve just got to try. You haven’t been sledding until you’ve hauled down the side of a mountain on a sunny day, companion wrapped around you while screaming in your ear and laughing like – well, I can’t think of anything that compares. Take off your snowshoes and do this. Just for an afternoon. You can get back to the hiking later.

Bramberg

Bramberg gives you convenient access both to the Wildkogel sledding run and to excellent snowshoeing. In Bramberg, Hotel Kirchner is a pretty, traditional-style inn that knows how to take care of snowshoers.

They’ve got shoes to rent and provide you with a bunch of other gear – poles, daypacks, miscellaneous other handy bits, and pieces – for free. They offer two guided snowshoe hikes weekly, and a number of full holiday packages that include all the goodies. Mountaineers can get hooked up with qualified, expert climbing guides. And, there’s hiking, cross-country skiing, curling, just about anything you can do outside in the snow.

Bramberg is famous for its gems – emeralds especially, so if you want to take some of that sparkle home with you, this is a perfect destination.

Ramsau and Dachstein

Just below the Dachstein Glacier lies the Ramsau plateau. This wide-open, sunny area at an altitude of more than 1,000 meters has miles of groomed cross-country ski trails, easy access to the Dachstein downhill ski area, a ski jump, and plenty of beautiful trails. Because of this altitude, Ramsau often has snow before and after any of the lower-lying valleys.

Because Ramsau is about a 20-minute drive from my Austrian home, I’ve spent plenty a fine afternoon on its trails. I especially appreciate the way the trail system goes right past one of the little supermarkets. Playing in the snow is hungry work and it’s nice to be able to pop in for extra snacks.

There are trailheads all over the Ramsau plateau. Though because of the popularity of this spot with cross-country skiers, you’ll want to choose your trail carefully. Please respect the way your neighbors are using the snow. Snowshoers are very welcome at most resort areas as long as you don’t trample the tracks set up for use by skiers. Your thoughtful trail use will make you an excellent ambassador for the sport.

If you have a clear, sunny day while you’re staying in Ramsau, don’t miss out on the opportunity to take the gondola – and your snowshoes – up to the Dachstein Glacier. As of last there, there are no marked snowshoe trails up there, but don’t let that stop you. You might choose to walk parallel to the cross-country ski track or head out on your own.

Naturally, if you choose to go unguided, exercise all the appropriate safety precautions. Dachstein is a glacier, but just because it’s a ski playground doesn’t mean you should forget about safety. If you’re looking for high alpine adventure on the Dachstein, consider finding a climbing guide to help you find your way around the spectacular natural wonder.

If you’re sold on this region, check out the Steierhof. As a non-smoking facility, the hotel offers snowshoe tours two to three times a week, veggie options on the menu, and it’s right in the middle of the Ramsau valley. The Steierhof also has incredible views of the Dachstein range from its terrace, massage therapists on staff, a sauna and a whirlpool Jacuzzi on-site – everything you need for a perfect winter getaway.

Hinterstoder

The snowy little burg of Hinterstoder sits tucked away at the top of a valley that’s not really on the way to or from anywhere. It doesn’t matter: Hinterstoder is a hiker’s paradise. There are dozens of excellent trails – from casual wandering afternoon strolls to full mountain climbing expeditions – for you to choose from, so you won’t want to leave. Hinterstoder is home to a popular downhill ski area, the Wurzeraln, but don’t be fooled by the cars in the parking lot. You’ll leave those crowds behind the minute you strap on your snowshoes.

Hinterstoder is also home to the Alpineum, a museum that dishes up all kinds of information about the relationship between the Austrians and their mountains. Climbing, skiing, and avalanche safety – it’s worth checking out. Its winter program lists a collection of paintings inspired by the mountains, but it also has an extensive collection of antique winter sports gear, if you’d like to see how far we’ve come.

Villages like Hinterstoder are where you’ll get a real feeling for the Austrian countryside. A little out of the way, these hamlets are great places to spend your vacation. Try the Wanderhotel Poppengut, a family-run place that will help you with your snowshoe adventure.

This place is so committed to getting you outside, they even list a handful of recommended hikes on their website. There are a sauna and a pool for that post-snow unwinding. While it would be handy to have a car if you choose Hinterstoder as your base, the hotel does run a hiking shuttle that will deliver you right to the trailhead. Poppengut also offers a couple of packages especially for snowshoers that include gear rental and guided hiking.

Further Resources

The European Wanderhotels Association has a terrific website that you can use to book your snowshoe vacation at any of the hotels I’ve mentioned. They’re also connected not only in Austria but all over Europe. The translations on the site aren’t always the best, but the real people behind the site are very helpful. If you’re not finding what you need, go to the contact page and drop them a line.

For general tourist information about Austria, I like the Tiscover site. Austrians have a thorough understanding of the change of seasons, so many of the resources you’ll find via the Tiscover site are divided seasonally. That way you can go straight to the best part of the year: Winter!

Another good place for general information is the Austrian National Tourism site. This site offers trip-planning advice, recommends travel agents and unravels some of the more mundane details of getting your vacation plans figured out.

Gute Reise!

Austria truly is a winter wonderland. The pristine snow and the seemingly endless opportunities to enjoy it, the quality of the food that will fuel your adventures, the charming hospitality of the people: it’s all there, the makings of a perfect winter vacation.

As snowshoers, you’ll make new friends and turn heads as you participate in this growing sport in a country that lives for snow. Spending even a few days snowshoeing in Austria will give you the sense of living in a flawless snowglobe. Enjoy.

This article originally appeared in Snowshoe Magazine, Collector’s Edition, Winter 2005. If interested in purchasing a copy of the collector’s edition, please contact us.

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